How to Make Crochet T Shirt
Below is the free pattern for a simple textured crochet t-shirt. This pattern is one of the options in the Heart of Yarn Crochet Pattern.
You can read more about the 'Make it your own' crochet pattern concept in the Heart of Yarn Sweater post, or watch the video below which introduces the idea.
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However, if you're here for the t-shirt pattern alone, then read on!
Download the full Heart of Yarn pattern from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy
Pattern Notes
- Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
- Numbers at the end of a row or round indicate the number of stitches in that row or round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Turning chains do not count as stitches
- Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated
- Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
Construction
- Two body panels are worked top down
- The tee is constructed using the drop shoulder style, by seaming along the shoulders and up the sides
- The short sleeves are worked directly into the arm holes
- The cuff, neckline and hem are added at the end
Skills Needed
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches and terminology
- Foundation single crochet (UK foundation double crochet) – modification given
- Working in the back loop and front loop
- Simple sewing
Measurements and Finished Size
This is a classic fit boat neck cropped t-shirt written in sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)
Finished Bust Measurement: 78(88, 98, 108, 118, 128, 138)cm
Length (including hem): 43(43, 43, 45, 45, 47)cm
Materials
Hook: You will need a 5.5mm crochet hook for the body (or size needed to meet gauge) and 5mm for the neckline, hem and cuffs.
Yarn: item pictured used Lion Brand Heartland in Arcadia in MC: Denau (Pink) and CC: Arcadia (Cream). 142g ball = 230m
Approximate total yarn requirements by size: 470(520, 580, 660, 720, 790, 880)m
Yarn Substitution: Any similar aran or worsted weight yarn (acrylic or wool) can be used for this pattern so long as it meets the gauge.
You may find this post useful in helping you to make a yarn substitution.
Other: Yarn needle & scissors, tape measure, 2-4 place markers or scraps of contrasting yarn to help with joining.
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
- blo = back loop only
- CC = contrasting colour
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet (UK treble)
- dec = decrease – denotes decrease row
- fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double)
- flo = front loop only
- hdc = half double crochet (UK half treble)
- in patt = work in pattern – see Pattern Repeat section below
- MC = main colour
- patt rep = pattern repeat
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet (UK double)
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (UK double crochet 2 together)
- ss = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Gauge
16 sts and 10 rows in 10cm of the Pattern Repeat (below) using a 5.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Stitch Pattern
The stitch pattern used in this design alternates rows of single crochet and double crochet, with each stitch being worked in alternating back loop then front loop.
Follow the instructions below to make your gauge swatch. This will help you get used to the stitch pattern as well as check your gauge ( click here to learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch!)
Using a 5.5mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge);
Row 1 (RS): Make 25 fsc, turn. 25 sts
Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 1dc in blo, *1dc in flo, 1dc in blo; rep from * to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1sc in blo, *1sc in flo, 1sc in blo; rep from * to end, turn
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until your swatch reaches around 15 cm tall, then check your gauge.
Download the full Heart of Yarn pattern from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy
The Pattern
If you prefer not to work the fsc stitch in Row 1, make a ch of the numbers of sts indicated plus 1, then work 1sc into the second ch from the hook and each ch to the end.
Body Panel
Make 2 both alike
Using a 5.5mm hook and MC;
Row 1(RS): Make 63(71, 79, 87, 95, 103, 111)fsc, turn. 63, 71, 79, 87, 95, 103, 111 sts
Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 1dc in blo, *1dc in flo, 1dc in blo; rep from * to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1sc in blo, *1sc in flo, 1sc in blo; rep from * to end, turn
Rows 4 – 33(33, 33, 35, 35, 35, 37): Rep rows 2 and 3
Fasten off
Construction
Lay out your body panels with WS facing (I always leave the tails on at this point so that I can make sure I know I am working both panels the same). You may choose to mark the WS/RS in another way, for example with a scrap of contrasting yarn.
The foundation chain of each panel will be joined to form the shoulder seam so these should be next to each other.
This video shows how to construct a traditional drop shoulder sweater
Create the shoulder seams:
Working from the outside inwards, sew or ss together the pieces, matching st to st, for 5(9, 12, 16, 17, 19, 22) sts, leaving 53(53, 55, 57, 61, 65, 67) sts unworked.
Once you have done this on both sides count the unworked sts in the centre on both panels to check they are the same – this will be your head hole so check that your head fits through it and you're happy with the fit around the neckline (remembering you will be adding a trim!) If you need to adjust the shoulder seams for a better fit then do so here, making sure to make even adjustments on each side.
Side Seams
Fold your garment in half the at the shoulder seam and pin together the side seams.
With WS facing and working from the bottom of the body, sew together the sides of the body panels (matching row ends), leaving approximately 17(18, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25)cm of the body unjoined for the arm hole.
Use a place marker to mark where you will seam to and make sure you do the same on each side. Count and match rows of that helps!
You could check the fit of the body at this point and ensure the armhole depth is suitable. Change the length of the side seam to alter the arm hole depth.
Sleeves
Repeat sleeve and cuff instructions on both sides
With RS facing, using a 5.5mm hook, join the yarn at the top of the side seam;
Round 1: Work 48(50, 54, 58, 64, 72, 80)sc evenly around the row ends of the armhole, ss to top of the first st, turn. 48, 50, 54, 58, 64, 72, 80 sts
Round 2: Ch2, starting in the top of the last st from the previous round, *1dc in blo, 1dc in flo; rep from * to end, ss to top of the first st, turn
Round 3: Ch1, sc2tog, *1sc in flo, 1sc in blo; rep from * to 2 sts from end, sc2tog, turn. 46, 48, 52, 56, 62, 70, 78 sts
Cuffs
If you are working the cuffs in a different colour, change yarns here.
Using a 5mm hook, with WS facing, join your yarn to (or continue from) the seam of the sleeve and begin working at right angles to the sleeve;
Row 1 (WS): Ch9, 1hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 6 ch, ss into next 3 sts on the base of the sweater, turn. 7 hdc, 3 ss
Row 2: Do not ch, sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of the next 6 sts, 1hdc through both loops of the last st, turn. 7 hdc
Row 3: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 7 sts, ss into next 3 sts on the base of the sweater, turn. 7 hdc, 3 ss
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way around the cuff until you reach the start.
Join the two sides of the cuff by working a ss through the blo of each hdc and corresponding starting chain matching st to st.
Fasten off
Hem
Using a 5mm hook, with WS facing, join your yarn at one of the side seams and begin working at right angles to the bottom of the sweater;
Row 1 (WS): Ch17, 1hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 14 ch, ss into next 3 sts on the base of the sweater, turn. 15 hdc, 3 ss
Row 2: Do not ch, sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of the next 14 sts, 1hdc through both loops of the last st, turn. 15 hdc
Row 3: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 15 sts, ss into next 3 sts on the base of the sweater, turn. 15 hdc, 3 ss
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way around the hem until you reach the start.
Join the two sides of the hem by working a ss through the blo of each hdc and corresponding starting chain matching st to st.
Fasten off
Neckline Trim
Using a 5mm hook, with WS facing, join your yarn at one of the shoulder seams and begin working at right angles to the body;
Row 1 (WS): Ch7, 1hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 4 ch, ss into next 3 sts on the neckline, turn. 5 hdc, 3 ss
Row 2: Do not ch, sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of the next 4 sts, 1hdc through both loops of the last st, turn. 5 hdc
Row 3: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 5 sts, ss into next 3 sts on the neckline, turn. 5 hdc, 3 ss
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way around the neckline until you reach the start.
Join the two sides of the neckline by working a ss through the blo of each hdc and corresponding starting chain matching st to st.
Fasten off and sew in any remaining ends
Turn your t-shirt the right way round and enjoy!!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern, please do let me know how you get on! I love seeing your finished makes – it gives me all the happy feels – so here's how you can share them on social media, if that's your cup of tea!
- On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #HookMeHappy or #HeartOfYarn or just tag me @doradexplored
- You can tweet me your pictures, or add them to my Facebook page
- If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group "My Crochet Wardrobe" and share them there?
- If Pinterest is your happy place, you can add them there too, or use the share button at the bottom of this page! Check out my Pinterest account for lots more crochet inspiration from makers across the web!
Happy Hooking
Dx
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(C) DoraDoes 2020. You may sell what you make from my patterns, but please credit me as the designer at doradoes.co.uk. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared without prior written consent. My photos may be shared with full credit.
Source: https://doradoes.co.uk/portfolio/free-beginners-crochet-t-shirt-pattern/
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